The Fruit Police

There have been many attempts to make the tasteexchanging soft but potent hunks of durian and
of durian more palatable or to dilute it. Companiesswapping good jokes or exchanging heated political
have, among other attempts, made it into chewyopinions. The durian shell itself is manly. Hard with
candy, flavored ice cream with it, made it into puddings,strong and quite dangerous large spiky thorns, it could
and put it into durian cream cookie wafers to present itliterally be used as a medieval weapon, and probably
to an audience wider than its diehard fans But the facthas.
remains that you either like durian or you don't, noIn countries where the durian is prolific, there are many
matter where you come from. And if you like it, youlaws and regulations in city and even national charters
probably love it, and if not you probably hate it, even inas to where people can buy, cut, and eat durian. Many
cookie form. I myself have tried in vain to think ofhotels forbid their guests to bring durian into the hotel,
ways to use it as a secret ingredient. It's just tooand if the room stinks of durian the next day guests
unwieldy. (For the record, I have tried to like durian- Iare fined. In some places they could even be arrested!
want to like it because I know it must be really specialDurian, without a doubt, is the most controversial fruit in
once you know its secret. I have tried five times withthe world.
no success- I can barely get the smallest amountI personally have visited Wai Surat, Thailand's Durian
down.)capital, a large village located in the middle of Ko
The stench (or aroma) of fresh durian is so severeSamui. The locals are proud of Wai Surat, and I
that most housewives in Southeast Asia force theirsuspect itÕs right up there with the Big Buddah
husbands and their friends to eat it only outside- lesttemple in veneration. One cultivator while showing me
the smell permeate the rugs and pillows of the house.his trees also, reverently, showed me the scars on his
Actually, if one were to say either way, eating durian ishead where he had been hit by falling durian in the
rather a masculine thing to do. Every day in the hottestpast. Even my wife's Thai boxing is not as painful, he
parts of Asia are scenes of men gathered out backsaid laughing.